Artisanal Hand-Crafted Fine Chocolate

November 15, 2024

As we give, so we receive.

As we think, so we become.

Today, with gratitude, I dipped caramels made yesterday by Peter (expert caramel maker and my hubby).  Tree of Life Spice and Classic Salted all came out perfectly.  Joyful to make, beautiful to look at and sumptuous to eat.   They are headed to the staff at Gilchrist Hospice, where my Dad was cared for during the last week of his life. 

During one of my routine visits Dad went from a sharp mind to delirium in a matter of days.  A recent fall had left him with worsening back pain and a suspected head injury that had now reached a crisis point.  I was trying to keep the faith but felt it slipping away.  I saw no path forward and prayed for one.  The emergency room was out of the question. This is not how either of us envisioned things.  My 98 year old bridge-playing Dad was living in his own home still loving life.

I called Gilchrist Home Hospice to request a medical bed and some drugs to bring peace and pain relief for Dad.   The next day when the nurse arrived to evaluate our situation she suggested he go on the waiting list for in-patient hospice since there were no beds available.  Until suddenly a “ding” appeared on her computer screen and there was!  “Would you like your Dad to go there?” she asked.  

After two days of wondering if our last days together would be spent as patient and exhausted caregiver, the decision was an easy one.  From the moment he arrived at Gilchrist Hospice, the angels descended on us.  

His private room opened to a grassy common bordered by stone walkways and mature trees. A babbling fountain was adorned with hand-painted rocks left for loved ones.  Deer would occasionally meander through and birds sang.  What a peaceful respite this sanctuary was! Although Dad was sedated, I know he felt – and heard – the peace of nature around him

Words cannot express my gratitude for the loving care and comfort Dad received while at Gilchrist Hospice.  The nursing staff, doctors, music therapist, social worker and receptionists, all gracefully and collectively cared for him.  And they supported me in helping him to make a peaceful journey to the great beyond.  The Universe had given me the gift of being there and for both of us the path forward.

The Dali Lama speaks of being “wisely selfish” by working for the welfare of others.  That in doing so you will be happier and more peaceful.  This is why Gilchrist is a magical place.  This is why I make chocolate and give it away.  It is a joyful yet selfish act, this small token of appreciation

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It is with mixed emotions that I’ve decided not to open Plum Brook Chocolate as usual this season.  Any orders already placed for upcoming 2024 events will be filled.  

This decision was not an easy one but I believe it is the best one for me.  One of the greatest joys of my life would not have been possible without your support, loyalty and friendship these past 11 years.  I thank you all for that.  As far as the future of Plum Brook Chocolate, it is uncertain. My website and this blog will remain active as I plan to muse on the many aspects of chocolate here.  I hope you will check in occasionally!

I take a deep breath and look forward to what comes next. 

Wishing you all Peace, Love and Chocolate,

Pam 

When I became a chocolatier, I longed to visit a cacao farm.  Whenever I visited my parents in the west-coast town of Rincon, Puerto Rico where they’d winter, I’d search for a farm nearby. Cacao was once Puerto Rico’s largest crop until a hurricane in the 17th century wiped it out.  The few trees left were abandoned for easier to grow sugar cane and coffee.

Then, in 2015, I learned of the Hacienda Jean Marie, a cacao farm in Aquada, just 25 minutes from Rincon.  There I met Juan Echevarria.  His farm, thick with cacao and banana trees, sits high on a sloping hilltop overlooking the west coast’s magnificent Mona Passage.

Echevarria is as much a visionary as a farmer.  He is a major force behind The Puerto Rican Cacao Project, whose mission is to build a network of farmers to produce and export the world’s finest organic cacao.  The project’s steady progress was interrupted in 2017 when Hurricane Maria devastated many cacao trees.  But unlike the 17th century hurricane, the cacao growers dedicated themselves to rebuilding their farms.  The trees began to flourish again.

Fast forward to February 2024.  The Sunday Farmer’s Market in Rincon was abuzz with the lively co-mingling  of Spanish and English conversation and the ringing of church bells.  The neatly tiled town square was lined with palm trees, providing mottled shade for customers shopping for produce, baked goods, freshly brewed kombucha and – yes – chocolate.     

It was here that I met Nelson Omar, selling specialty chocolate bars and cacao nibs grown on his farm, Finca Montana (meaning Mountain Estate).  Omar, a native of Aquada, left his career as a professional mechanic after 20 years because “It was eating my soul.  Cacao farming is very hard but it is my passion”  he said, tapping his heart.  When I asked him if he knew Juan he replied “Of course.  He is my -how do you say? – mentor.  Through him I was able to learn all about cacao farming.”  My heart leaped!

Finca Montana chocolate is superb.  It has a complex, slightly bitter cacao flavor with hints of tropical fruit, super smooth mouth feel and a lingering finish.  I brought home five pounds of his 70% chocolate plus lots of bars and nibs.

When I emailed Juan that I had met Omar, he replied “We are very proud of Nelson and his wife”.  Indeed, he spoke of Omar as if he were one of his children.  And in a way he is.  Echevarria‘s dream of inspiring a new generation of farmers to put Puerto Rico on the map of fine chocolate is coming to fruition.

Recently Dancing Lion Chocolate, owned by New Hampshire chocolatier Rich Tango-Lowy, featured bars he crafted from Hacienda Jean Maria trees (click here).  Finally, Puerto Rican cacao is gaining a reputation beyond its borders.  The industry is still very small comparatively speaking, but enthusiasm for Puerto Rican chocolate is catching on and production is growing.  

With joy, I will be supporting Puerto Rican cacao farming when I craft confections from Finca Montana chocolate.  With gratitude for all that chocolate is and has given me, I will share with my family and friends.  

Interested in more information on the history of Puerto Rican cacao and its resurgence?   See my previous blog posts:

At The Foot of a Cacao Tree , Visiting a Puerto Rican Cacao Farm , The Hacienda Jean Marie – Post Hurricane Maria

When I’m not creating Plum Brook Chocolates in December (which is most of the time), I love holiday baking.  Since December is by far our busiest time, I stick to recipes I’ve adapted through the years that I know are not too time consuming and fool-proof with a delicious cut-above-the-rest result.  Here are two of my favorites!

PECAN BOURBON CHOCOLATE PIE

I recently took this pie to a girlfriends holiday lunch and it received rave reviews all around.  Whether you are planning to celebrate at home or travel to be with friends or family, pecan pie is a holiday staple.  The addition of bourbon and chocolate elevates a basic recipe.

INGREDIENTS

1 9″ unbaked pie crust
1 1/2 cups pecans, chopped
2/3 cup best quality dark chocolate chips
1 cup light corn syrup (non gmo preferred)
1/2 cup each light and brown sugar
4 eggs, lightly beaten
1⁄4 cup melted butter
2 Tbsp flour
3 Tbsp bourbon
2 tsp pure vanilla
2 Tbsp flour
1/2 tsp salt
1⁄4 cup melted butter
Whip cream and chocolate shavings (or cocoa powder)

DIRECTIONS

1. Preheat oven to 350 F.  Fit piecrust into 9″ pie plate; crimp edges.  Sprinkle pecans and chocolate chips evenly over piecrust.
2. Whisk together corn syrup and sugars in a saucepan.  Bring to a boil over medium heat and boil until sugars are dissolved, about 5 min.  Stir occasionally.  Remove from heat a cool slightly.
3. Whisk together eggs, butter, flour, bourbon, vanilla and salt in heatproof bowl.  Slowly drizzle in hot corn syrup, whisking constantly until fully incorporated.  Pour mixture in piecrust.
4. Bake until edges are set and pie puffs up about 45 min. Use a crust protector or foil to cover pie crust edges while baking.  Let pie cool 2 hours.
5. Serve with a dollop of whip cream and chocolate shavings (or cocoa powder) if desired.

BOURBON WHISKEY TRUFFLES

This is not actually baking but I had to include this at-home super easy chocolate truffle recipe.  It’s a fabulous dessert offering on its own or as part of a cookie tray.  Bourbon and chocolate make a perfect combination. The results are spectacular!

Be sure to use the very best quality chocolate you can find. The best chocolate for making truffles is block chocolate or chocolate bars.  Do NOT use chocolate chips (they will not melt properly for truffle making).  Guittard is my recommendation. Ghirardelli also makes baking bars. Look in the baking aisle for chocolate with 60% or higher cacao content.

Bring whipping cream just to boil.

Pour slowly over the chocolate and mix rapidly to create an elastic and shiny mixture. Cool slightly.  Add butter and mix it again with the spatula. Add bourbon and mix to incorporate. Place a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface (to avoid condensation) and refrigerate for 1-2 hours. Tip: Pour into a flat, plastic lined shallow baking pan, so the mixture sets evenly and quickly.  Check often.

Dust hands with cocoa powder, scoop the truffle mixture with a tablespoon and shape truffles before rolling in cocoa powder or nuts.

Cover tightly and store truffles at room temperature for 3-4 days or in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.  Serve at room temperature. Yield: 24-30 truffles.

Happy Holidays to All!

 To Listen Click Here

Epiphany: a sudden revelation or realization of a truth of great significance, usually triggered, sparked, or inspired by something ordinary or commonplace.  An epiphany is a personal paradigm shift, which changes the way one sees everything. (thesausus.com)

“So, it was an epiphany of sorts”.

Vanita was responding to my tale of leaving the corporate world and diving head first into the world of fine chocolate.  Since her interview I’ve given that word considerable thought and yes, epiphany just about sums it up.

I’d never been asked to be a podcast guest before and so, when approached to take part in the Woodbury Talks series about “interesting” residents of our town, I didn’t know what to expect.  I tend to shy away from talking about myself and I knew that would be the hard part. But having spent almost 10 years immersed in the world of fine chocolate I felt up for the task.  Still, entering the small library conference room and taking a seat across from Vanita, who placed a black, vintage microphone between us, I admit a few butterflies flew.  (Like “OMG what have I gotten myself into?” kind-of-thing).

My tendency when interviewed is go stiff and stick with the facts but Vanita has that certain something about her that’s both professional and easy going.  Plus, she always makes you feel important, special.  I found myself totally at ease.  I loved the way she brought in the mysticism of how chocolate captured me, using words like epiphany and unifier.  The whole experience inspired me to step away and view my business through this lens.  

Among the things we discussed were:

• My chocolate journey that began as a 10 year old in our family kitchen 
• Fine chocolate versus mass market chocolate
• Fair-trade and why its important
• The science of chocolate making

Thank you Vanita Bhalla for hosting and to the staff at the Woodbury Public Library for producing Woodbury Talks.  The series highlights the amazing number of artists, musicians, historians, writers and foodies who call this small town their home.

Thursday, August 4 is National Chocolate Chip Cookie Day.  Do we really need a special holiday to honor the chocolate chip cookie?  Yes!  This beloved cookie DOES deserve its own special day. There’s no denying that it is a tantalizing and adored treat.  Over 40% of all Americans name the chocolate chip cookie as their favorite, earning it the status of the “American cookie”.  

The chocolate chip cookie attributes it creation to an act of serendipity.  The first known version was made in 1938 in Whitman, Massachusetts at an inn called the Toll House, where chef Ruth Graves Wakefield threw chocolate bar chunks into her cookie dough.  The rest is history.

A warm, gooey chocolate chip cookie from the oven transports me back to happy childhood memories.  Like many, I grew up on the Nestle Toll House cookie recipe.  During the pandemic lock-down I decided to up my chocolate chip cookie game and (many cookies later) I FINALLY found this one.  It is my all-time favorite, go-to chocolate chip cookie recipe courtesy of The Inquiring Chef.  You can’t eat just one.

 Crispy Chewy Chocolate Chip Cookies 

I use and recommend Guittard dark chocolate chips and always adhere to the recipe advise to refrigerate the dough for 20 minutes before scooping onto a sheet pan to bake.  This never fails to result in a scrumptious cookie that is chewy in the middle and crispy around the edges.  The PERFECT chocolate chip cookie!

No matter how you like your chocolate chip cookie there is a way to celebrate this special day.  Make a batch of chocolate chip cookies.  How about grabbing a friend for a bakery crawl?  You may even find bakeries celebrating the day by giving free samples.  If your favorite chocolate chip cookie is found in the grocery store, go for it!

Did you know:

• Chips Ahoy debuted in grocery stores in 1968, making it the first commercial chocolate chip cookie.
• Ben & Jerry’s were the first to introduce Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough Ice Cream in 1984.  It was an instant hit.
• The chocolate chip cookie was named the official state cookie of Massachusetts in 1997.

However you decide to celebrate, do it with a friend or two and don’t forget the cold milk!

Note: Toll Gate photo courtesy of Wikipedia.  Cookie photos courtesy of the NYT Cooking.

It was a perfectly cloudy and drizzly Seattle day when I, along with husband Peter and brother-in-law John, made a visit to the Theo Chocolate Factory.  I had been eagerly anticipating this day since planning our visit to Seattle -now it was here!

Joe Whinney, Theo’s founder, is a rock star in the world of fine, fair-trade chocolate.  His vision to be the first fair-trade certified, organic chocolate maker in North America came to fruition in 2006 when the Theo factory opened in the Fremont neighborhood and had its first run of chocolate bars.  Theo’s is as much about promoting social responsibility as it is about making great chocolate.

If it weren’t for a small sidewalk sign pointing the way you could easily pass by the chocolate factory housed in the historic 1905 red brick building (formerly a trolly car station and later Red Hook Brewery).  Walking in we were greeted by a super-friendly staff and the delectable smell of chocolate.  After donning hairnets our group was in the capable hands of Janet, our charming tour guide determined to combine interesting educational information along with lots of delicious samples.

We learned that Theo gets its name from the Cacao tree – Theobroma Cacao, Food of the Gods.  Janet easily engaged us in a discussion about the origin of cacao, the trees, their pods and the harvesting, fermentation and drying processes that take place at the cacao farm.  (For an up close and personal look at a cacao farm and it’s harvesting process click on my post, “The Hacienda Jean Marie”  here).

Onto the factory floor where we watched the roasters, grinders and other chocolate machines – some of them vintage – working hard in each area. I felt like I was in the magical world of Willie Wonka!  We watched as the beans went on a fascinating  journey to become a chocolate bar. My favorite area was the large, well-equipped professional kitchen where truffles, toffee and various bon bons were being finished…what envy I had!   It was here that we indulged in some delectable chocolate treats.

The tour ended at the retail chocolate shop which was filled with seemingly endless tempting choices and I left with a bag full.  I loved the Curry Coconut Bar and found their 85% Chili Bar complex and satisfying.  My favorite dipped confection was Big Daddy, layers of gram cracker, marshmallow and burnt caramel in dark chocolate.  To die for!

I left inspired and in awe of “mind-bending” chocolate that is not just satisfying and delicious but totally transparent and socially responsible from farm to consumer.  One can change the world through chocolate and they are. Do not miss Theo’s tour if you ever visit Seattle!

theochocolate.com

Origin of the Mendiant

Mendiant is French for a beggar of alms, and refers to the four orders of mendicant monks. The chocolates known as mendiants are thin rounds of crisp perfectly tempered chocolate. The word derives from the Latin root mendicans, which means “begging,” in reference to those beggars of alms — monks or friars in religious orders who adopted a lifestyle of poverty for the purpose of preaching and ministry.

Traditional Mendiants

Historically, mendiants were offered at Christmas time and have four traditional toppings representing the white, gray, brown, and purple robes of the Dominican, Franciscan, Carmelite, and Augustinian friars.

Modern Day Mendiants

Modern-day mendiants are offered year round and sprinkled with any number of tasty and beautiful ingredients, and in countless combinations.

Recently perusing past lessons from my Ecole Chocolat training I came across the chapter on mendiants and decided to give them a try. They are fun and easy to make!

Hazelnut Espresso Dark

Here’s my take on our Hazelnut Espresso Dark Bark.  I made these for an art gallery opening recently and they were a big hit!  Give them a try.  The possibilities are endless but keep the toppings to no more than 3 or they get a bit messy looking.  Perfect for parties and gift-giving!

Cacao Tree – Hacienda Jeanmarie in Aguada Puerto Rico

Single-origin chocolate is chocolate that’s made from one variety of cacao harvested in one region, small family-owned farm or even a specific country.  Cacao is a plant whose beans take on the characteristics of the region where it’s grown. This is called terroir.  Like grapes grown for wine, cacao from specific regions can be fruity, earthy, floral or berry to name a few.  Tasting single-origin chocolate is a fun, sensory-driven experience.

When cacao from different regions or countries is blended, the effect of terroir is lost. That doesn’t mean that blended chocolates are not as good. In fact, blends are used by some of the world’s finest chocolate makers and chocolatiers. Some cocoa beans that are ordinary on their own can be great in blends. (Beware that the big mass market producers will use blends to improve the flavor of inferior cheaper beans).  

While I love the distinct flavor of single-origin chocolate, I use Guittard Chocolate blends for most of my creations because their chocolate is of the highest quality, some of the best in flavor, always fair-trade and transparent (able to trace the crop directly back to the source. This term can relate to either blends or single-origin).  Their beans come from small farms with long family traditions and they work closely with cacao growers to develop desired chocolate flavors in the beans.

Single-Origin Peruvian Truffles with Peruvian Cacao Nibs

Inspired by my trips to Cusco, Peru and the Hacienda Jeanmarie in Aguada, Puerto Rico, I’m using single-origin chocolate for two new truffle creations this season. And our solid Plum Brook Dragonflies will now be crafted from single-origin chocolate from different countries.  They are like a passport to the world of chocolate!

At Plum Brook Chocolate our mission is to create fine quality, handmade artisan chocolate while enriching the local community and the communities of cacao farmers far away.

Since this post 3 years ago, I visited the Maras Salt Ponds just a few weeks ago.  Words cannot describe the magnificence of the Sacred Valley we traveled from Cusco to Machu Picchu. It was the trip of a lifetime!

I am excited about the next chocolate season and using Maras Salt in one or more of my creations. The  chocolate I had in Peru was out-of-this-world so I’d like to do a combination of Peruvian Chocolate and Maras Salt. Yum!  It is an earthy, robust, salty salt.  Plum Brook Chocolate won the 2016 CT Specialty Food Awards in the Chocolate Category for our salted caramels with Maras Salt!  Who knows what next season will bring?

Here I am at the Maras Salt Ponds, Peru

Original Post: This week we made a fresh batch of salted caramel topped with Inca salt brought to me by my brother-in-law John and his wife Helen who recently returned from a trip to Peru. Maras is a town along the slopes of the Sacred Valley of the Incas and known for its salt evaporation ponds. People here still collect salt from the ponds just as they did thousands of years ago.

Peruvian women collecting salt from Maras salt pond. (photo courtesy of JC Dorgan)

Since pre-Inca times, salt has been obtained in Maras by evaporating salty water from a local subterranean stream. This highly salty water emerges at a spring from the underground stream. The flow is directed into an intricate system of tiny channels down onto the several hundred ancient terraced ponds. Maras is near the city of Cusco that was once the capital of the Inca Empire. Set at an altitude of 11,150 feet, it’s the gateway to the Inca Trail that ends at the mountain citadel of Machu Picchu.

Peru and cacao share an age-old intimate relationship. It has been said that the cacao shrub originated in the foothills of the Andes where it was domesticated then introduced by the Maya in Central America and Mexico.  Today Peruvian cacao is recognized for its superb flavor and exports are on the rise.

So it seemed very fitting that we give this ancient salt a try!  Flor de Sal is a very robust and salty salt, more so than the milder French Fleur de Sel we usually use to top our caramels.

Plum Brook Chocolate Salted Caramels topped with Maras “Flor de Sal”. 

We love the taste of Maras salt on our caramels!

UPDATE!  Our salted caramels with Maras salt received the blue ribbon – first place – in Connecticut from the CT Specialty Foods Awards 2016!